HPI Baja 5T Conversion

I just could not pass up this crazy deal for $500 plus in brand new Integy parts for $100 shipped. Only time will tell if the integy parts are as bad as people say.

I bought brand new SS shocks because I used the old ones in my roller 5b. Since I won a set of front and rear Kraken-RC Titanium shock shafts I used them instead of the stock shafts. I am not sure if the Ti shaft are any stronger but I can tell you that they are almost half as light (stock 44g and ti 27g).

As I slowly waited to buy all the parts I needed to convert the buggy to a truck, I install some of the integy parts like, side rail, side rail guard, rear shock support, and gear box.

I also came across some other upgrade while trying to decide what 5T body to get. I found a set of brand new Hostile 3 degree rear hubs for $55, then I got the matching Hostile Heim end conversion from DDM.

Since I upgraded to Hostile's rear hubs and heim joint I did not like the excessive camber with the 12mm spacer. Now I made two 14mm aluminum spacers that gives me about 1 degree camber.

I also picked up a used DDM Dominator v2 pipe for $70 and he even threw in a Modified RC rear bumper for free

I am not really good at painting bodies so I went with a used Proline Desert Rat body from ebay for $85 shipped. I was happy with that purchase because I did not have to paint it or anything and it was ready to use. I especially liked how they previous own put the carbon fiber sticker on the body.

I wanted to give the body a cleaner look and prevent the edges for cracking so I went to Pepboys to buy some door edge molding. With $10 worth of molding I was able do the whole body with some extras.

The story behind this body is that it is designed by Proline for 5B owners who wanted to convert their Baja to a 5T would only need buy this body and Excavator tires/ wheel set to do the conversion. This body originally came with special body post that let you do this conversion and not need all the 5T side mounts and front bumper.  

I did not want to use the proline body mount because it weak and lack support on the side of the body. Since the original owner used the body a real 5T this worked out for me because I do not have to drill new holes. The one thing I did noticed is that the body is a little smaller in length and width. That could also be the reason why is was not as popular and was discontinued.

Oh I almost forgot to mention I paid retail from DDM for the front 5t Body mount, Bumper skid plate, and bumper guard. Then bought the brand new chassis guard from ebay. I got a set of used Proline Desperado with Excavator tires for $80 shipped from hpibajaforum.com. And finially the side guards, and rear chassis guards was purchased from ebay.

After using the Proline Desert Rat body I purchased on ebay, the rear mounting holes did not seem to fit very well. I had to bend the body post a little forward to get it to fit, and caused the roll cage to contact the exhaust and melt.

The only solution to my problem is to make a custom rear body post. I used 7075 T6 aluminum round rods to make the body mounts and post. Then used 1/4 inch 2024 aluminum for the plate.

Most of the work was done on the lathe. I wanted to mill out the flat plate to make it lighter but I do not have a milling machine and my drill press is old so it does not do a very good job. Please I am to lazy to cut it with my jig saw and file it by hand.

Lastly I made two 14mm aluminum spacers that fit over the rear upper arm. I got this idea from Killer RC and the concept of the aluminum spacers is to "spreading out the forces to a larger area on the end of the arm and ball end, 'to' takes much of the stress off of the steel turnbuckle."

Here is a video of the 5T (with 5B 20T gear in the tranny) doing some baseline speed test before the BSW 2 speed and OBR Prostock 30.5 engine: