|Since I have everything off the truck this would be the best time to install the bump stop. I do not want to pay $26 for 4 screws so I just made my own. I did not realize that Team Fast Eddy bump stop are made out of 5mm screw until it was too late. But it worked fine even though I use 6mm screw.
I think it was easier to drill the holes for the bump stops on a used chassis because the grub screw from the A-Arm already gouged a hole in the chassis. The only thing you need to do is use a center punch to mark it so the drill bit does not wander when you start drilling.
|When I made the duel servo mount , I started off with a sheet of 1/4 inch thick 2024 aluminum. I wanted to use 2024 aluminum because it is quite a bit stronger than 6061. I marked the holes where the 2 servos will go.
With a table top mill I machined out the 2 holes.
Here I am test fitting the servos, making sure the holes are big enough.
I made a temple from of the SNR servo plate and drew it on the aluminum.
I had trim some edges to make sure it fits. I also cut another hole so the Traxxas waterproof RX box and drop right in.
In this picture you can see how the RX box will fit.
This is pretty much how this mount will look like
The servo plate was a bit heavier than what I like, so I tried to machine off any excess aluminum.
Once again I did not to pay the full retail price of this same switch that KillerRC modified so I found one online for $5.10 plus shipping.
First I trimmed the ends of the terminates so it is not so long then solder some wires to the bottom of it. Let me warn you now, you have to solider it very quickly because this switch cannot take much heat. I destroyed one switch because I had my soldering iron on there for too long.
I sealed the bottom of the switch when I solder the wires with ShoeGoo so the wires will not accidently short.
Here is how the switch looks like when its mounted to the duel servo plate.
Finally the last step to this duel servo setup, the servo horns. I used the same 1/4 inch 2024 aluminum. Drilled out the hole and marked where I wanted to machine.
The blue servo arm has to recess in or else the steering linkage with hit it. It would be fine if I mounted the linkage to the blue servo horn but I am not. I am making this aluminum part because the blue servo horn is too short.
I took the rod ends from an E-Revo to connect the two servos.
|Next up is the O’Neill Brothers Racing (OBR) Full Mod 30.5 Engine. I am guessing this is the high torque
Since I am using a Darksoul vented clutch housing I am not able to use the outerwears Â crankcase cover. I used window screen mesh and epoxy it to the inside of the crankcase. I used a little bit of CA glue first to hold the mesh in place first. Then I apply the epoxy afterwards.
Here is the mesh after I trimmed the excess.
This is how it looks from the outside.
I am not really sure if it really makes that much of a difference with this flywheel.
The original clutch that came with the Losi was only a standard CY clutch with 8K spring. I swapped it out for a High Response version with a 8K spring. The only difference between the 2 clutch is the 4 extra holes drilled in the High Response clutch. I also replaced the CY clutch housing with a Darksoul Vented Clutch version to keep things running cooler.
Since the pullstart was broken I replaced it with Turtle Racing v2 Billet Starter Assembly.
I replace the whole clutch housing and clutch bell to a Bartolone Racing Billet Clutch Carrier and Vertigo Hex Drive Vented Clutch Bell with a 21T pinion.
I do not like the “red”Â Quick Release Aluminum Ball Connector so I changed it to a blue one. The main reason why I did that is not only because of the color but the blue one uses a thicker rod. The red connector uses a 2-56 size rod and the blue one uses a 4-40.
|Here is a picture of my testing to make sure all the electronics is working correctly. I also used a Direct Power Harness for all the servos and Killer RC Smart Volt Meter.
In this picture you can see the new blue fuel lines with FFRC High Flow machined brass fittings and TGN aluminum fuel clamp.
Here I tried to make the body stronger by using DDM’s Body Edge Trim along the edges.
The DDM Body Edge Trim goes around the whole body.
Here is a closer shot of the DDM’s Body Edge Trim and how it stiffens up the body by sharing the load throughout all of the body and not just the weakest and thinnest spots.
This is the bottom side of the body. Do you see the little white patched behind the front wheel wells? That is where I repaired the cracked body with fiberglass cloth and ShoeGoo.
Here is a close up shot of the repair.
I replaced the Futaba 3PMX FASST radio with a Futaba 4PX and R614FS reciever.